Showing posts with label degustation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label degustation. Show all posts

Wednesday, 23 March 2011

Bistro Ortolan, Leichhardt

Bistro Ortolan

This French bistro in the Italian dominated suburb Leichhardt has been on my list of places to try for quite some time.
I've heard so much good things on their degustation dinner so it was an easy pick when I had to choose :)

Candles ; The SMH Good Food Guide 2011 - 2 Hats ;
Candle Holder ; Red Cupboads

It was a pretty small restaurant, on a rough estimate, probably fits 20 - 25 diners max ? 
The set up somehow reminds me of Assiette, you get a view of the open kitchen from the dining room and you have to walk pass the kitchen to get to the restrooms :)

Degustation Menu & Cutleries

The table was soon filled with cutleries for the 10 course feasts :)

Iced Tomato Essence w/ Baby Herbs & Merimbula Rock Oyster

We started off with a plate of refreshing starters and a piping hot sourdough roll with cold butter.

Wholemeal Sourdough  ;  Merimbula Rock Oyster w/ Cucumber Granita

The juicy and briney Merimbula rock oyster was topped with cucumber granita that was icy with tiny cubes of diced cucumber. 

Iced Tomato Essence 

The chilled clear tomato consommé was poured on the table into the shot glass already filled with tomato ice. 
There were slices of crisp tomato cheeks from tomatoes of 3 different colours and a sprig of micro purple basil. I love this very much, the tomato flavour really shines through, clean and refreshing. 
Served with a crisp toast with olive and anchovy.

Ceviche of Ocean Trout w/ Fennel & Pernod Mousse 

Ocean Trout Ceviche ; Seaweed Brioche Toast

The next course of fresh ocean trout ceviche arrived on a round glass plate and served with seaweed brioche toast.
We were instructed to mix the gold leaf topped Pernod (a French aniseed liquor, like Greek's ouzo) mousse together with the ceviche, then spread it on top the toast. 

It was so so delicious ! I love fennel so I just love the flavours in this dish, the refreshing ceviche, the creamy mousse and how was the seaweed toast ? Well, it's brioche so it's sinfully buttery, soft and pillowy and the slightly salty seaweed added a lovely flavour contrast on the sweet brioche.  

Dining Tables ; A huge wine bottle chiller by the entrance door

Tortellini of Queensland Mudcrab w/ Apple & Mudcrab Salad, Silken Tofu & Roasted  Crab Consommé

The roasted crab consommé was poured on the table, the wafting aroma of the crab was so heavenly.
The plump tortellini is packed with the sweet and flavourful Queensland mudcrab meat, topped with creamy mudcrab and crisp apple salad. Served with silken tofu, diced tomato, chestnut mushroom and a single mâche rosette topping the tortellini :)
The consommé was amazing, the flavours were rich but yet delicate, wish there was more....

Crisp-skinned Fillet of Cone Bay Saltwater Barramundi w/ Squid & Corn 'Risotto'

This dish was just full of surprises for me :) 
The barramundi was cooked to perfection, the skin was crisp and nicely salted whilst the meat remains velvety soft and sweet. I was a little bit skeptic on the sweet corn puree it was served with, but surprisingly it worked really well with the other salty components, it just balances out the flavour. 
The risotto "rice" were actually uniformly diced squid !! Shaped almost like rice, so uniform and so glistening - amazing. 
The sweet corn and squid risotto was the highlight of the dish for me - loved it to the last "grain" of squid. The squid was so tender and sweet...yummm....

Rare, Spice-roasted Sirloin of Cervena Venison w/ a Fricassé of Glazed Vegetables, Foie Gras & Game Pie

We were a bit puzzled when the venison course came next, it should have been a rabbit course after the fish.
The waitress quickly took the plates back and checked with the kitchen. She returns within seconds and was very apologetic - slight confusion in the kitchen ehehehehe :P
We didn't mind the slight change of order, so let's get back to the venison, shall we ?

It's a hit and miss with venison for me, sometimes they are okay, at times the gamey flavour was just too overpowering. 
The venison was very tender, juicy and had very clean flavour - for the glazed vegetables we had baby leek, baby parsnip and baby asparagus, nicely caramelized. 
There were 4 different sauces on the plate, seems a lot but the flavours managed to not clash with each other - creamy and tart bearnaise, sweet and rich bourdelaise sauce, creamy and earthy mushroom puree and the sweet and creamy cauliflower puree.  

Foie Gras & Game Pie ; Side of Mixed Leaves

The foie gras and game pie was equally delicious, the pastry flaky and buttery, the filling had really nice and rich flavour.
A bowl of lightly dressed mixed leaves was very much needed to balance out the rich dish of game - well thought of I think :)

Roast Macleay Valley Rabbit w/ Parsley Butter & Baby Summer Vegetables

It has to be the prettiest plate I've seen - art on a plate !! The bright colours, the way things are scattered in the right position and location - perfection.

This rabbit dish is a medley of rabbit - the rack, loin, fillet, liver and.....EAR ! Bunny's ear !!!
I wasn't sure I heard it correctly - no pun intended - so I had to ask the waiter again LOL
My friend just couldn't bear the thought of eating bunny ears, so they were passed on to me who gladly accept ^_^
The crumbed ear was surprisingly gelatinous and just simply melts, a surprising contrast of texture to the crispy crumbed exterior. First time having rabbit ear and I must say I don't mind it actually.
The loin was very lean and lacking in flavour, while the fillet had more flavour and was very tender.

Parsley Butter Croquette ; Crumbed Rabbit Ear

Excuse the messy plate - that would be what's oozing out of the ball of croquette filled with parsley butter - we were told to poke it ever so lightly as brute force would burst the fragile ball and that would mean big mess!
The parsley butter was rich and slightly lemony, went really well with the leaner meat such as the loin and helps to cover up the irony taste of the liver. 

Like the previous courses during the night, the rabbit was accompanied with a selection of baby vegetables - baby radish, baby carrot, baby leek, baby peas and shiitake mushroom.


Compared to other restaurants offering degustation, I must say that the portion here at Bistro Ortolan was quite generous - there was more on the plate than what you'd except.
It was no surprise that after a progression of dishes with rich flavours, we were just so looking forward to something sweet.

Imagine the look on our face when the waiter brought over plates that were definitely NOT dessert no matter how you see it :

Twice-cooked Tenderloin of Wildes Meadow Bio-Dynamic,  Milk Fed Veal with Soubise Purée,  Veal Sweetbread & Bone Marrow Dauphinoise

Because of the mix up earlier, the chef sent out a complimentary course - totally unexpected and very much appreciated ^_^
Loosen the belt a notch and we soldier on....

This turns out to be one of the tastiest dishes we had tonight - my friend declared it as his favourite of the night !

The biodynamic 30 days milk fed veal was cooked slowly for hour - the loin was very tender and soft, don't need much force to cut it - it simply melts...really did....
The tender veal was served on a bed of soubise purée - a béchamel type sauce mixed with sweet caramelized onion puree. 
Served with the creamy veal sweetbread and a tower of potato dauphinoise layered with foie gras and  topped with the equally rich bone marrow. 

We were told that this is a special dish to Bistro Ortolan and we can see why - love every bits on this veal dish - a very satisfying surprise from the kitchen , thank you ^_^

Brebirousse d'Argental w/ Fresh Date and Walnut Toast

When we expressed our concern on the cheese course earlier on ( we both can't stomach strong cheeses, and knowing the French - chances are it will be something like that) , we were assured that although its a double cream sheep's milk cheese, the flavour would be very mild.
...
We just ate the toast - LOL !!
The so called very mild cheese had really strong sheep's milk flavour and we both don't like dates.

When the waiter came to clear the full (minus the toast) plate, I resisted the urge to say, "We've told you so...".

Stone Fruit Salad w/ Plum & Lemon Balm Sorbet

The palate cleanser was just what we needed to wash off the sheep taste :{
Plum sorbet had really nice fresh juicy plum flavour, the lemon balm was a tad too sweet but sour at the same time. The lemon pate de fruit was definitely sour - eye squinting sour moment >__<
The fresh stone fruits were crisp and sweet - perfect to reset our taste buds ! 

Date & Armagnac Crème Brûleé w/ Caramelized Brioche French Toast & Fennel Ice Cream

The most theatrical crème brûleé I've ever encountered !!
FLAMING BRÛLEÉ !!!

Flaming Brûleé !!!

Fennel Ice Cream & Brioche French Toast

After the flame has died off (it went burning for a while actually) - it's time to dig in !
Though we said we don't like dates, we didn't mind it in the brûleè form - the date flavour was quite light with a nice armagnac flavour, the custard was set perfectly.

The fennel ice cream and the brioche french toast was a match made in heaven - I just want more of them.....
The fennel flavour really stands out in the ice cream and the buttery caramelized brioche was just a perfect accompaniment. 

Petit Four

We were offered tea or coffee to finish off the night but we had to decline for several reasons :
  1. If we had the coffee or tea, we may need a couple of stretchers to carry us out - we were on the brink of bursting from too much food.
  2. It was already 11.30pm - weeknights - we can barely keep our eyes open -__-
The petit four was still served though - white chocolate truffle and passionfruit jelly. 
The white chocolate truffle was delicious, a creamy milky white chocolate centre encased in a crisp dark chocolate coating with a fine dusting of cocoa powder. 
The passionfruit jelly's tartness should wake us up but it had no effect on us this late in the night.

Deserted @ 11.30 pm

The degustation here is another one of great value, just $120 per person for 10 generously portioned courses.
I don't think I've ever been this full after a degustation - it was really hard to sleep when I got home LOL
The foods were beautifully presented and supported by the wonderful flavours of the dishes. The service was hit and miss, the waiter / waitresses were knowledgeable of their foods although little things that made a difference such as topping up our water glasses was missing.
Do allow 4 hours if you are having the degustation, we arrived at 7.00pm and didn't leave the restaurant 4.5hours later - the foods did take a while to come out, so that might be one of the reason too.

All on all, I would definitely recommend degustation at Bistro Ortolan, it has made it to the top of my favourite restaurant in Sydney :)

Bistro Ortolan on Urbanspoon












Wednesday, 19 January 2011

Serge Vieira "Chefs in The Dining Room" - Cuisine NOW 2011

Chef Serge Vieira 8 Course Degustation 

What is Cuisine NOW ? As stated on their website, it's "a food festival to showcase the development of contemporary cuisine over the past 30 years".
This would be the 2nd year that this annual food festival is held, all thanks to Tony Bilson to have such an excellent idea to gather well renowned chefs from not only Australia but from France as well.
Names such as Tetsuya Wakuda (Tetsuya's), Brent Savage (Bentley Restaurant & Bar), Shannon Bennett (Vue de Monde) and of course Tony Bilson (Bilson's) are no stranger to our ears. From France, he has invited Jean-Luc Rocha (Chateau Cordeillan Bages) and Serge Vieira ( Restaurant Serge Vieiera).

Bilson's Dining Room

"Chefs in The Dining Room" is one of the event held during the festival where the 2 international guest chefs have the opportunity to showcase their gastronomy skills. The event is held at Bilson's Restaurant and is split into 2 weeks - Chef Vieira reign the kitchen one week and Chef Rocha the other. 
There were available as 5 course or 8 course degustation over lunch or dinner from 11th - 22nd January 2011.
Since I've got the member discount offer from the Entertainment Book (yay!), I booked us in for 8 course degustation dinner by Serge Vieira.

I'm very excited on what we will be having that night because his restaurant has been awarded the prestigious Michelin Star within just 6 months after opening ! Restaurant Serge Vieira was awarded One Michelin Star in March 2010 :)

Complimentary Moët & Chandon ; Bilson's Plate

Once we were seated and our drinks order were taken (a.k.a. sparkling water LOL), we were served complimentary flutes of Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2000. 
Proud to report that for once I finished the whole flute without getting allergic reaction the next morning *woohooo!!* 
The trick was to drink it over a period of 3 hours and plenty of water in between - yes....the champagne was warm by the time I had the last drop...

Clean and Crisp Table Settings

Spoon
Duck & Ginger

As amuse-bouche, we had cured duck breast, topped with thinly sliced ginger, carrot and served with tomato oil in these fancy spoons. 
The duck breast was tender and the tomato oil had a very crisp tomato flavour.
I must say that I was expecting a classical French flavours from Chef Vieira, so it was a pleasant surprise to see that he used Asian flavours in some of his dishes tonight .

Mise en Bouche
Tomato Ravioli ; Wagyu Roll ; Potato Croquette

They were like savoury petit fours that is served at the beginning instead of the end of a meal.
The cutest trio on a plate :D

The UFO shaped one on the left is tomato ravioli, the clear tomato jelly acting as the "ravioli", encased inside the clear hat were blue swimmer crab mousse, then underneath was a slice of cherry tomato resting on top of a crisp puff pastry. A very nice combination of texture and flavours, light and refreshing.

Celeriac Remoulade Wrapped in Wagyu Loin

Wrapped inside the tender aged Wagyu rump slice was celeriac remoulade, crunchy finely julienned celeriac mixed with creamy mayonnaisse.

The Potato Croquette was like potato 3 ways : inside the crispy potato shell was creamy potato salad, topped with this fluffy and crisp baked mash potato ( you now those frozen potato Pom Poms ? That kind of texture :D).

Crusty Baguette

The bread was then served after the plate of mise en bouche was cleared, which was a tad strange that the bread was only served now ?
Not complaining though as the baguette was delicious, the dangerous thing was that they would place another one on your plate as soon as they saw you took the last bit.
Learned my lesson so I ate the second one slow...ly....

Homage to the Great Barrier Reef
Roast Gambas, Oysters, Vongole, Mussels, Abalone & Razor Clams
under the"sea" - a fine film of Citron Jelly

As the name suggested, this next dish was inspired by what the chef's saw on his visit to The Great Barrier Reef .  
The presentation was simply breathtaking - the vibrant colours of the seafoods and flowers, the clear film of citron jelly, the peppermint foam and the very thinly sliced cauliflower to replicate the corals on the reef.
Too pretty to eat *sigh* - took us a while before tucking in...too pretty......

See the clear "sea" ?

The sauce was made of fish stock and butter emulsion, there were also fennel and black olive puree beneath all the seafoods. 
The ones that stand out would have to be the sweet roasted prawn and the lightly battered tempura abalone. You can really taste and smell the sea on this plate, the combination of different flavours and textures just worked so well together.
This was the one dish that tasted as amazing as it looked.

One more shot - just because it's so pretty  ^_^

Crayfish, Coconut, Beetroot
Butter Roasted Marron Lobster, Varietal Beetroots & Crayfish Ravioli with Coconut Milk Pasta

The ravioli pasta was made with coconut milk and filled with marron lobster meat and topped with coconut and carrot crudité.  It tasted like Thai curry but its also Italian but also French ? A multicultural ravioli indeed :)

In the centre of the plate we had butter roasted marron tail resting on a strip of crushed tomatoes. 
The marron was done perfectly, still have a bite to it and retains its natural sweetness. The butter sauce though creamy didn't overpower the delicate flavour of the crayfish. 


Psychadelic Beetroot ; Crayfish Ravioli

On the side we have a salad of mixed beetroots with avocado and sugar snap peas. 
There were the normal dark purple ones, yellow, white and one psychadelic swirly beetroot ! Now why can't I find these fancy beetroots in vegie shops ??


John Dory, Thyme, Lemon
John Dory, Kohlrabi dressed with Thyme & Lemon Grass

The roasted John Dory was cooked to perfection and served on top of a very creamy and delicious fennel veloute. 
Topped with a crisp and refreshing salad of kohlrabi (German turnip) and almond that burst with flavour of thyme every now and then. 
On the side was a strip of crushed herbed potato and a dollop of tangy lemongrass creme that just add that extra zing to the dish. 

Lamb Epigrame
Rosé Lamb Saddle w/ Braised Lamb Belly Croquet & King Oyster Mushroom

(Lamb !!! Please don't have a strong smell, please......>___<; )

The lamb was prepared 3 ways : braised lamb belly in the centre with lamb jus and seasoned with cracked black pepper and topped with baby leek , rare lamb saddle and last but not least the lamb belly croquette.

The lamb belly though tender had too strong flavour to me, the biggest piece on the plate and the one I struggled the most to eat LOL If you are a fan of lamb you would love it (my cousin sure did!).

Lamb Belly Croquet ; Vegetable Brunoise

The lamb belly croquette was tender and nicely crumbed, it was served with grilled king oyster mushrooms and mushroom duxelles underneath. 

The rare lamb saddle was nice, it has the least lamb flavour of the three and though it looked rare, it was very tender and sweet. The dollop of onion puree was topped with a crispy paper thin lamb bacon accompanied by the perfectly diced and vibrant vegetable brunoise.

Fromage
Cheese from Auvergne
Cantal, Blue d'Auvergne, Saint Nectaire, Fourme d'Ambert

(Blue Cheese *Arrghhh*)

All four cheeses were from the Auvergne province in South Central France and served with glacéd apricot and fig.
There were two different types of blue cheeses, since I just cannot eat them , this is what my cousin thought of them :
"Blue d'Auvergne - mild and slightly firm texture and the Fourme d'Ambert was just pungent and gooey".
The other 2 cheeses, I can eat (while trying not to breath in the blue's pungent aroma) - the Cantal was a firm cheese, sort of like cheddar and the Saint Nectaire was a washed rind cheese that had a mild flavour and a springy texture. 

Apricot, Wattle Seed
Apricot Clafoutis, Apricot Cream, Cannelloni, Yoghurt & Wattle Seed Ice Cream

When I read "clafoutis" on the menu, I was expecting it to be served in a shallow baked dish as it would traditionally. 
The apricot clafoutis was presented in a form of rectangular custard studded with apricot jelly, then topped with a layer or thin crispy caramelized sponge, a layer of pistachio cream, another layer of sponge and then an apricot cannelloni. The cannelloni was made from apricot "pasta" sheet and filled with cream. 
On the sides we had the coffee like wattle seed ice cream and yoghurt mousse on nuts and apricot granola soil.
Finished off with a swirl of vanilla bean syrup and the pretty sugar bubble thins :)

There was a nice balance of sweet and sour in this dessert, the tartness of the apricot jelly and yoghurt mousse helped to set off the sweetness of the other components on the plate.

Strawberry , Szechuan Pepper
Strawberry & Rhubarb Tartlet w/ Szechuan Pepper & Honey Ice Cream

The second dessert of the night was a strawberry and rhubarb tart topped with the delicious frozen lime mousse disc ! It was like eating a frozen foam that just melts into air with lime zest flavour - it was probably the best part on the plate hehehehehe.
Topping the frozen disc was honey ice cream, plank of tuile, thin slices of dehydrated strawberries and a tiny dollop of pure mint puree on the side. 

On the side we have a poached rhubarb, topped with a twirl of strawberry candy that tasted just like fresh strawberries !
There was this clear tube of jelly that I just couldn't pin point what the flavour was - it's lemon but not quite just lemon - lemon myrtle ? 

Strawberry & Rhubarb Tart ; Poached Rhubarb & Strawberry Candy

We passed on having coffee or tea after the meals, but we can't turn away more sweets now, can we ?

Mignardises
Pistachio Financier , Cherry & Chocolate Macaron , Peach & Nectarine Pâte de Fruit

The plate of petit four to finish off tonight's meal consisted of 3 miniature sweets - the sweet and chewy pistachio financier topped with citrus brandy snap, a delicate cherry & chocolate macaron and the sweet peach & nectarine jelly.

Pistachio Financier w/ Financier Créme & Citrus Brandy Snap

What is the verdict on the meals prepared by Chef Serge Vieira ? I think I can see why his restaurant was awarded One Michelin Star after being opened for less than a year - his creations were simply amazing. 
The presentation were impeccable and so were the flavours. There may be lots of different flavours going on on the one plate but they all just work. 
I also love how he manage to incorporate the Asian flavours into the dishes whilst retaining their French presence :)

Cuisine NOW festival runs from 11th - 22nd January 2011, for more information on the events and bookings, check out their website at http://www.cuisinenow.com.au/




Wednesday, 15 December 2010

Celebrate New Year's Eve @ Tomislav, Darlinghurst

Chef Tomislav Martinovic
(Image courtesy of Tomislav / The Mint Partners)

It's only 16 days to the new year and why not celebrate the last night of 2010 with a good food and view of the always amazing midnight fireworks at the Sydney Harbour Bridge ?

The lovely Emma from The Mint Partners has asked me to share with you guys the special dinner that is happening on the 31st December 2010 at Tomislav in Darlinghurst.

I've dined there on two occasions this year and I must say I was very impressed both times.

For this special dinner, Chef Tomislav has created an indulgent 7 course degustation menu with matching wines including his signature Vanilla Cheesecake with grilled strawberries, basil and rhubarb sorbet. 
If you are looking for a perfect occasion to dine at Tomislav, this will be the perfect time to experience his molecular gastronomy take on Modern Australian cuisine.

There will be 2 sittings for the night (price includes 7 course degustation and matching wines, any additional drinks will be on consumption) :
  • 1st Seating @ 5.30pm - $225 per person 
  • 2nd Seating @ 9.30pm (with view of the midnight New Year's Eve fireworks) - $350 per person

Here is what the Chef has put together for the special night :

Tomislav New Year's Eve 2010 - 7 Course Degustation Menu

1st Course
RICE CRACKERS - sea salt & vinegar

2nd Course
KANGAROO TARTARE - hazelnut dressing, fried bread

3rd Course
CLEAR HEIRLOOM TOMATO GAZPACHO - foie gras, cucumber, grilled Yamba prawn

4th Course
GRILLED COFFIN BAY OYSTERS - lime, honey, smoked potato cream

5th Course
GRILLED JUNEE LAMB CUTLETS - lamb rib, mint sauce, baby onions, crinkle cut chips, iceberg lettuce

6th Course
VANILLA CHEESECAKE - grilled strawberries, basil, rhubarb sorbet

7th Course
CHOCOLATE COCONUT BAR - coconut milk ice, chocolate sorbet

CHOCOLATE COCONUT BAR
Coconut Milk Ice, Chocolate Sorbet
(Image courtesy of Tomislav / The Mint Partners)

Has the menu caught your attention yet ? ^_*
The Kangaroo Tartare sounded really interesting, and the Clear Heirloom Tomato Gazpacho is heavenly, I still can remember how it tasted, the fried brioche and the freeze dried foie gras...mmm....
( PS: Let me know how they tasted if you are going, would love to hear about your dining experience :D)

If you are still looking for a place to spend the New Year's Eve with great food and view of the spectacular fireworks, why not give Tomislav a call ? ^_^
Remember, you can only get the fireworks view at the 2nd Seating later in the night, so be quick and secure a table !

2/13 Kirketon Road
Darlinghurst
Phone (02) 9356 4535
Email : info@tomislav.com.au